Richard Chai
By, Sarah Smith
Conversation is nothing new in the creative world. Dual
helms at fashion houses, interdisciplinary collaborations and brand empires
demand discussions; but dialogue has never seemed so relevant a concept as it
does in the work of New York-based designer, Richard Chai.
Named Swarovski Menswear Designer of the Year at the 2010
CFDAs, Chai is esteemed equally for his eponymous womenswear line and the
seasonal Richard Chai LOVE collection that fashion fans flock to see each New
York Fashion Week.
September’s insight into Spring Summer 2013 saw a refined
finish to relaxed fits in a palette of pastels accented with digiprints and
innovative textures. It also saw, for the label’s first time, the mens’ and
womens’ collections shown together. Not an effort to please financial advisers,
instead the simultaneous presentation enabled the dialogue and accessibility of
the Richard Chai LOVE world to be demonstrated perfectly.
Built on youthful energy, the collections are a layering of
sophistication, skilful construction and a laidback attitude that serves to
become sartorial conversation fodder for all. What could you want to wear more?
Discuss.
What tends to be your initial starting point with
each new collection?
Each season brings new
specific inspirations. A lot of my inspiration is drawn from NYC and
those that are in my life. I am fortunate to have interesting and
inspiring friends.
How would you describe your design process?
The
development starts very soon after the runway show for the previous season.
I always start the collection with a mood and a spirit that I want to
capture. From there, I work around that idea through color, fabrics and
silhouette, to find a way to get my vision for the season across.
What would you say are the constants in your work
from season to season?
I have a strong belief in
the importance and value of the construction of clothes, so this is a constant
focus. In terms of style I would say there is always a youthful sensibility to
the collection with elements like layering and uniform-inspired classics mixed
in.
You combined heavy fabrics and strict tailoring with
beautifully sheer, fluid silks for Fall 2012-13. Do you enjoy working with
contrast?
Yes definitely, Richard Chai
LOVE is all about mixing that tomboy style with feminine aspects. I like
figuring out how to make the contrast work and how to make it interesting and
new.
Can you give any hints as to what has inspired you
for SS13?
I wanted the SS13 collection
to be really light and refreshing. The materials were a starting point with
transparent mesh and bright neoprene.
You design both women’s wear and menswear, how does
your approach to each collection differ (if at all)?
My menswear and womenswear
styles are in dialogue with one another. I would say I design for them in the
same way, creating garments for men and women that are sophisticated
individuals; young, vibrant and a little rebellious.
Would you consider that you find more freedom in
designing women’s wear?
Probably womenswear. Women
tend to be a little more adventurous with their clothing, but I enjoy designing
for both.
What three words would you use to describe the
Richard Chai woman in three words?
Sophisticated, spirited, and
individual
What three words would you use to describe the
Richard Chai man in three words?
Casual, cool, and
sophisticated
You’ve worked in both New York and
Paris, what fashion similarities/differences did you find between each city?
With Paris the emphasis on
fashion can be more on the creative and artistic side, where you can experiment
more. Where as in New York and the American fashion scene there is more of a
sense of practically - you can still be creative but you also have to keep that
practicality in mind when designing.
What influences you most about New York?
The people definitely.
How do you like to see your clothes worn?
I like to see people
incorporate their individual style.
What do you hope to instill in the women that wear
your designs?
Sophistication, coupled with
the confidence to express their personal style.
You’ve worked in some top design houses, what was it
that made you decide to go it alone?
I have worked with some
amazing design houses including Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs and Tse. I learned so
much working for them, and perhaps it may have be easier logistically to stay
with a huge design house, but having my own company has been an incredibly rewarding
experience. There is a certain freedom in having my own brand and the ability
to create a productive and dynamic work environment for myself and my employees.
What did winning Swarovski Menswear Designer of the
Year at the 2010 CFDA’s mean to you?
It was a huge honor to be
recognized by the CFDA and to have their continued support.
Where do you seek the greatest inspiration – the
past, the future, or the now?
It's different each season,
inspiration can come from anywhere and can strike you at anytime so it would be
hard to pinpoint one of those.
PHOTOS by : Editor in Chief; Deborah Ferguson @contentmode Copyright 2012
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