Contentmode live with Richard Chai LOVE: S/S13

 

 

Richard Chai

By, Sarah Smith

Conversation is nothing new in the creative world. Dual helms at fashion houses, interdisciplinary collaborations and brand empires demand discussions; but dialogue has never seemed so relevant a concept as it does in the work of New York-based designer, Richard Chai.

 

Named Swarovski Menswear Designer of the Year at the 2010 CFDAs, Chai is esteemed equally for his eponymous womenswear line and the seasonal Richard Chai LOVE collection that fashion fans flock to see each New York Fashion Week.

 

September’s insight into Spring Summer 2013 saw a refined finish to relaxed fits in a palette of pastels accented with digiprints and innovative textures. It also saw, for the label’s first time, the mens’ and womens’ collections shown together. Not an effort to please financial advisers, instead the simultaneous presentation enabled the dialogue and accessibility of the Richard Chai LOVE world to be demonstrated perfectly.

 

Built on youthful energy, the collections are a layering of sophistication, skilful construction and a laidback attitude that serves to become sartorial conversation fodder for all. What could you want to wear more? Discuss.

 

What tends to be your initial starting point with each new collection?

Each season brings new specific inspirations.  A lot of my inspiration is drawn from NYC and those that are in my life.  I am fortunate to have interesting and inspiring friends.

 

How would you describe your design process?

The development starts very soon after the runway show for the previous season.  I always start the collection with a mood and a spirit that I want to capture.  From there, I work around that idea through color, fabrics and silhouette, to find a way to get my vision for the season across.

What would you say are the constants in your work from season to season?

I have a strong belief in the importance and value of the construction of clothes, so this is a constant focus. In terms of style I would say there is always a youthful sensibility to the collection with elements like layering and uniform-inspired classics mixed in.

 

You combined heavy fabrics and strict tailoring with beautifully sheer, fluid silks for Fall 2012-13. Do you enjoy working with contrast?

Yes definitely, Richard Chai LOVE is all about mixing that tomboy style with feminine aspects. I like figuring out how to make the contrast work and how to make it interesting and new.

 

Can you give any hints as to what has inspired you for SS13?

I wanted the SS13 collection to be really light and refreshing. The materials were a starting point with transparent mesh and bright neoprene.

 

You design both women’s wear and menswear, how does your approach to each collection differ (if at all)?

My menswear and womenswear styles are in dialogue with one another. I would say I design for them in the same way, creating garments for men and women that are sophisticated individuals; young, vibrant and a little rebellious.

 

Would you consider that you find more freedom in designing women’s wear?

Probably womenswear. Women tend to be a little more adventurous with their clothing, but I enjoy designing for both.

 

What three words would you use to describe the Richard Chai woman in three words?

Sophisticated, spirited, and individual

 

What three words would you use to describe the Richard Chai man in three words?

Casual, cool, and sophisticated

 

You’ve worked in both New York and Paris, what fashion similarities/differences did you find between each city?

With Paris the emphasis on fashion can be more on the creative and artistic side, where you can experiment more. Where as in New York and the American fashion scene there is more of a sense of practically - you can still be creative but you also have to keep that practicality in mind when designing.

 

What influences you most about New York?

The people definitely.

 

How do you like to see your clothes worn?

I like to see people incorporate their individual style.

 

What do you hope to instill in the women that wear your designs?

Sophistication, coupled with the confidence to express their personal style.

 

You’ve worked in some top design houses, what was it that made you decide to go it alone?

I have worked with some amazing design houses including Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs and Tse. I learned so much working for them, and perhaps it may have be easier logistically to stay with a huge design house, but having my own company has been an incredibly rewarding experience. There is a certain freedom in having my own brand and the ability to create a productive and dynamic work environment for myself and my employees.

 

What did winning Swarovski Menswear Designer of the Year at the 2010 CFDA’s mean to you?

It was a huge honor to be recognized by the CFDA and to have their continued support.

 

Where do you seek the greatest inspiration – the past, the future, or the now?

It's different each season, inspiration can come from anywhere and can strike you at anytime so it would be hard to pinpoint one of those.

 

PHOTOS by : Editor in Chief; Deborah Ferguson @contentmode Copyright 2012