London youth 78-87

                                                                   BY DEBORAH FERGUSON

 

    Since the early 1970's British photographer Derek Ridgers was the first to document Britains youth culture and it's evolution up to 1987. His book " 78-87 London Youth is a modest catalog of the most die hard original punks through the neo romantic Blitz club days; in which it was of highest priority to dress oneself in the most imaginative ensembles. His work stands out from fellow photo journalists of his time as he was able to capture the essence of the person beneath the costume pretense.

   He frequented the London clubs, dives, music gigs , the streets of London and various other suburbs to catalog each sub culture as it evolved.

   In contrast to this we currently have heards street style bloggers at the international RTW Fashion week shows fighting for a shot of a fashion editor or a fellow blogger inwhich they feel they  quite possibly found an original street style look. Much of the current digital content of street style that draws unique visitors is based on celebrity street style inwhich retailers and editors refer to this as "new" style, trend as a result has a tremendous influence to their decisions; not sub cultures. Perhaps as past sub culture street style has been exploited on the runways season after season what is left? Will there be a RTW show without a recycled sub culture or period reference ? 

   The current day sub cultures in night life has disolved to Hip hop street wear looks, wannabe indie/look poor and grungey and the incarnated techno goths. There isn't a current sub cultures in the music or club scene can shine a light and or claim they are infact creating a new fashion trend  above and beyond on the original punks, goths and neo romantics. I'm sure the late Leigh Bowery or Phillip Salon would agree.