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Milan Fashion week SS15 : Stella Jean Philanthropist & Designer

                                                                   BY DEBORAH FERGUSON

 

          Milan fashion week SS15 opened today with Haitian /Italian RTW designer; Stella Jean. I have great respect and inspiration about her ethics, her philantropy and textile design.  A well produced and directed film about her company and designing ethics  won "Best Message" this year at the La Jolla International Film Festival.  As we had a film in the same festival I had the pleasure of viewing hers at the award ceremony and it left me with a feeling of ; why don't more RTW designers take her approach, adapt her ethics?  Giorgio Armani, Suzy Menkes, Mark Holgate and a few other key Italian editors gave fantastic interviews about Stella Jean and The importantance of the Ethical Fashion Initiative. 

    Fast forward to today; her SS15 RTW collection was reflective of her Carribean roots and more specifically: Jamaica. Her use of fabrics and the prints are somewhat 1950's inspired with a bright mix of native African prints. Gorgeous collection and an incredible woman creating a brand that brings awareness, gives back and remains a standout RTW collection. Stella's message " It's not Charity it's just work"

BEST MESSAGE Film : featuring Giorgio Armani 

 

http://vimeo.com/beyondthereal/stellajean-armani

 

    

London Fashion week SS15 Trend overview

                                                                 BY DEBORAH FERGUSON

 

   London Fashion week is traditionally about the visionaries who set their own trends. As of late some of the trend setters in London RTW have softened their collections to fit into the demands of the international retailers whom remain loyal.  And then there are those how can still afford maintain their own identity and not follow trends they see at Premiere Vision and or by discret foot notes from editors and  buyers.

 These particular designers are becoming far and few; and I will happily carry a creative torch for the fearless, dysfunctional designers who set trends within their credible chaos.  To name a few KTZ, Toga, Meadhamkirchhoff, Sibling,Fyodor Golan,Bora Aksu; they endure harsh and warm reviews as they often take risks most editors and buyers are too afraid to appreciate.

 

Nasir Mazhar                             MeadhamKirchhoff                     Fyodor Golan           Toga                             

 

        Aside from breaking all laws of trend a few had some strong stand out details in their collections;  which ultimatley challenge the eye of buyers who seek directional rather than conventional.  

Simone Rocha and her romantic futuristic silhouettes well suited for more than a young demographic.

J.W. anderson and his strong accessorizing and use of leather in the best silhouette for SS15 thus far.

Thomas Tait: LVMH award recipient has evolved forward without repeating successful past silhouettes.

Sibling: slight 1980's prints and the strong accessories evolved into a standout slightly more sophisticated collection than their previous.

  A surprising trend/theme that appeared in the stronger  LFW SS15 collections was the white puffy dress silhouette created in unexpected materials knitted, organza and  crochet. A unique combination of baby doll dress meets the futuristic princess. Maybe a touch of the Japanese ingenue who often prefers the baby doll inspired look?

Erdem                         KTZ                             Simone Rocha                   Sibling                   Bora Aksu         

SS15 NYFW Trend: Black meets White

                                                                By Deborah Ferguson

 

    Trending black and white for Spring/Summer 2015 at NYFW wasn't a surprise or rather what was surprising was the unexpected versions a small number of RTW designers presented.  Graphic blocking of black & white as well a deep blue/black was most stand out as Cocktail dress silhouettes at the; Adeam, Calvin Kelin Collection, Sally LaPointe, and Del Pozo shows. These designers pushed for a modern, sleek , directional silhouette which places them on my covetable list.

   Two other versions were well interpreted: white top and black skirt by Peter Som, Cushnie et Ochs and Altuzarra; slightly modern and much more for the contemporary woman who needs a slightly classic option.

 The last notable interpretation was; soft slashes of black or white into semi fitted feminine long gowns by Alon Livne, Thakoon and J. Mendel. These gorgeous gowns are not only both red carpet friendly but offers one a sexier version of what can often be perceived as a hard edged trend. 

 

 

 

  Adeam                                       Sally LaPointe                  Del Pozo                                  Calvin Klein

 

 

 

 

   Altuzarra                                                  Peter Som                                      Cushnie et Ochs

Thakoon                                                 J.Mendel                                            Alon Livne

SS15 NYFW Trend: White and cropped

                                                                By Deborah Ferguson

   The ever so needed "all white" trend for Spring /Summer collections was presented by some of New York's best designers in unexpected silhouettes.  Alexander Wang, ParkchoonMoo and Prabal Gurung had the strongest and yet most wearable all white ensembles. I sometimes imagine; does a buyer for a large retail chain in the USA, Asia or Europe ever consider  an all white ensemble as an important trend to buy?  I believe if you live a life of leisure; yes.

     Speaking as Manhattan woman running around to meetings and shoots? Maybe not. As a red carpet option for a younger ingenue yes. My favorite silhouettes are modern with a slight retro touch (Prabal Gurung, Osklen, ParkchoonMoo).

   The bomber jacket paired with a mini is ideal for a day to night chic look.  Shorts and the larger cut blouses and jackets works for those in the leisure /selfie zone and last but not least the utilitarian version; interpreted best by Marc by Marc Jacobs; is the most covetable as you can dress it up or down and look effortless

      

 

                ParkchoonMoo                                         Prabal Gurung

 

   Alexander Wang                                      Osklen                                                     Rachel Comey

 

                    Assembly                                            Marc by Marc Jacobs

SS15 NYFW: Trending the Florals

                                                        BY DEBORAH FERGUSON

 

      New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 collections had a few prominent trends that were interpreted  by New York based  RTW designers . A few of which I would not have projected as they often avoid themes and trends that are obvious to a particular season.  Regardless the floral print fabrics  appeared in more than 10 RTW collections during NYFW and the most interesting versions were based on 1950's Hawaiian interior fabrics; large palm leave and larger flowers: Karen Walker ( ironically her collection theme was Garden People), Del Pozo; referencing Indonesia and Osklen who also referenced the larger leaf variety.

      In regards to strong floral fabric prints; Thom Browne's mix match and vibrant color combinations was the stand out collection in regards to the floral fabric print trend.  

    Bolder as less obvious floral; Peter Som, Prabal Gurung and Lie Sang Bang. Non fabric prints ; applique and embroidery; Anna Sui and Vivienne Tam had the stronger versions .

 

 Prabal Gurang                                                 Thom Browne                                    Lie Sang Bong

 

 

 

   Osklen                                      Karen Walker                             Thakoon                        Del Pozo                           

 

 

 

 

 

Anna Sui                                                           Vivienne Tam                             Peter Som