BY DEBORAH FERGUSON
London Fashion week is traditionally about the visionaries who set their own trends. As of late some of the trend setters in London RTW have softened their collections to fit into the demands of the international retailers whom remain loyal. And then there are those how can still afford maintain their own identity and not follow trends they see at Premiere Vision and or by discret foot notes from editors and buyers.
These particular designers are becoming far and few; and I will happily carry a creative torch for the fearless, dysfunctional designers who set trends within their credible chaos. To name a few KTZ, Toga, Meadhamkirchhoff, Sibling,Fyodor Golan,Bora Aksu; they endure harsh and warm reviews as they often take risks most editors and buyers are too afraid to appreciate.
Nasir Mazhar MeadhamKirchhoff Fyodor Golan Toga
Aside from breaking all laws of trend a few had some strong stand out details in their collections; which ultimatley challenge the eye of buyers who seek directional rather than conventional.
Simone Rocha and her romantic futuristic silhouettes well suited for more than a young demographic.
J.W. anderson and his strong accessorizing and use of leather in the best silhouette for SS15 thus far.
Thomas Tait: LVMH award recipient has evolved forward without repeating successful past silhouettes.
Sibling: slight 1980's prints and the strong accessories evolved into a standout slightly more sophisticated collection than their previous.
A surprising trend/theme that appeared in the stronger LFW SS15 collections was the white puffy dress silhouette created in unexpected materials knitted, organza and crochet. A unique combination of baby doll dress meets the futuristic princess. Maybe a touch of the Japanese ingenue who often prefers the baby doll inspired look?
Erdem KTZ Simone Rocha Sibling Bora Aksu